Japan: Hiking the Kumano Kodo to Kyoto

Some of the paths of the Kumano Kodo have long sections with steep inclines and declines, mossy stone staircases, or trails with exposed tree roots. Please note that in Japan, it can rain any time of the year and the trails can get slippery and muddy.

We strongly urge you to train for your trip, as your enjoyment will be highly dependent on your level of fitness. The best training for a hike is to hike, especially over hills or rough terrain. Next best are running, swimming, bicycling, or other cardiovascular exercises. Stair-climbing machines are excellent preparation for hiking uphill. Your feet should also be well prepared—make sure your hiking boots are sturdy, comfortable, and thoroughly broken in. Altitude is generally not a problem on this trip. However, some people still experience a few problems when they first reach high altitude. Slight headache and sleeplessness are the most common symptoms.

Japan’s climate and temperature range are similar to the east coast of the US, with four distinct seasons. In March and April, the weather typically begins feeling like spring and we hope to enjoy the cherry blossoms. Viewing the blossoms is somewhat of a national pastime in Japan. However, as spring is a transitional season, we can expect some rain. In autumn, the weather in Japan turns pleasant, as the humidity of the summer months leaves the air. Because the occasional typhoon does occur in the autumn, we may expect some rain. Temperatures should range from the 50s to the 70s °F. In the mountains, the weather is unpredictable and we may encounter rain.

Japan is a blend of the traditional and modern, and our trip encompasses this unique mixture. We will stay at traditional ryokans as well as Japanese-style hotels. The quiet world of the ryokan is a venerable cultural institution—a way to experience a simple, timeless way of life. The hosts at our ryokans consider us as family and treat us accordingly. After being warmly welcomed, we trade our street shoes for slippers. Once inside, we remove our slippers as we step onto the finely woven tatami mats covering our sleeping room floors. Our rooms are spacious and pleasant with low tables and comfortable futon mattresses with quilts and blankets. Ryokans have double rooms (singles are sometimes possible). Please note that single guests may share accommodations with another guest in the group of the same gender.

Some of our ryokans have rooms with attached toilets, while others will have “down the hall” toilet facilities that are shared by all guests. In addition, some may have private Western-style showers or tubs in the rooms, while others may not. All of the ryokans have a communal ofuro (a Japanese-style bath). An ofuro is an integral part of the traditional Japanese bathing ritual, emphasizing cleansing and relaxation. Normally, a fresh cotton yukata (robe) is provided for each guest at the ryokans. These light kimonos can be worn anywhere in and around the ryokan, including the ofuro, and we often wear them to meals (make sure to wear the left side over the right). For many of our breakfasts and dinners, beautifully presented meals are served as we sit on the floor at low tables on our tatami mats.

A highlight of any visit to Japan is its superb cuisine defined by fresh ingredients and artful presentation. We will have ample opportunity to sample both familiar and new dishes. We will sample many types of Japanese food, and usually the first “bite” is with our eyes, the presentation being a tantalizing array of fresh fish, beef, vegetables, tofu, miso soup and, of course, rice, all served on individual plates and bowls of exquisite sizes, patterns, and proportions. We eat with chopsticks and are usually seated at low tables on the floor. At some ryokans, you may choose between a Japanese breakfast of fish, rice, miso soup, tofu, vegetables, pickled condiments, and tea, or a western breakfast consisting of eggs, toast, salad, and coffee. Many places, however, offer only Japanese food.

During the trip, you will have some lunches and dinners on your own, allowing you ample opportunity to sample the endless variety of Japanese food. When we are traveling, we may try an obento (box lunch), and we sample the snack foods of Japan and/or get a bowl of udon, ramen, or soba noodles at one of the local spots. We often eat lunch at noodle shops and small neighborhood lunch spots, avoiding the infamous high-priced meals of Japan. Keep in mind that Japanese food is very different from what we are used to, and with the limited availability of American foods, your food intake will be a big part of the Japanese adventure. Please note that vegetarian options are available but limited. Strict vegetarian diets, vegan diets, or gluten-reduced diets will be difficult to accommodate due to the pervasiveness of the fish-based stock dashi and the use of soy sauce and miso in Japanese cuisine. Gluten-free cuisine will not be available.

In Japan, bathing is a time-honored tradition, a relaxing daily event. While staying in our ryokans, we will bathe as the Japanese do—using the ofuro system. In separate men’s and women’s sides, the custom is to wash and rinse before entering the ofuro, a large tub of hot water where we can sit back with legs extended, submerged to the neck (this trip is not for the very modest!). Early Shinto was a religion of cleanliness and purification. Ritualistic bathing began during this time and has been perfected over the centuries. Either as a divine imperative or a luxury, bathing in Japan has always been regarded as more than a hygienic chore. The ofuro is the perfect way to finish a hectic day of travel. After a relaxing bath, we gather for the evening meal.