After a friend told me all about her trip to Bhutan many years ago, the tiny mountain kingdom has been on my bucket list ever since. I wanted to see and experience its stunning landscapes, ancient monasteries and temples, and vibrant festivals. And how can one not be intrigued by a country that measures the happiness and well-being of its population through its Gross National Happiness (GNH) index?

Day 1

My trip started at the Bangkok airport (after several days exploring Bangkok on my own) where I sought out my fellow travelers who carried a daypack with a Wilderness Travel luggage tag. I knew after meeting them that we were going to enjoy each other’s company the rest of the trip. I had read that the descent into Paro is one of the most challenging and visually stunning flights in the world. Although a clear view of the Himalayas was limited due to fog, it was still inspiring.

We were warmly greeted at the airport by our guides Kipchu and Tandin.

Our first stop was the Iron Bridge, a 600-year-old chain bridge. It was the first of many times that we would encounter colorful prayer flags, prayer wheels, and large photos of the king and his family.

Following our hotel check-in and lunch in Thimphu, we visited a Giant Buddha statue, filled with over 100,000 small buddha statues, overlooking the city. We ended the day admiring the vegetables, fruits, and grains at a local market.

Day 2

Today we hiked to Cheri Monastery, a 17^th century monastery. Although you can’t take photos inside temples and monasteries, I will always remember the vibrant painted walls depicting Buddhist teachings, the glow of butter lamps, the numerous offerings, and the large buddhas on the altar.

Our next stop was the Royal Takin Wildlife Preserve that protects Bhutan’s national animal, the takin. The takin, a rare species found in the eastern Himalayas, looks like a mix between a cow and a goat. The preserve also serves as a rehabilitation center for other animals such as barking deer and sambar deer.

Day 3

Starting at the Lha Dzong Tashigang Monastic School and Meditation Center, we hiked up a forested trail lined with prayer flags to Lungchuzekha Monastery. We then hiked down another trail to the Dochu La mountain pass, comprised of 108 chortens or stupas, in memory of Bhutanese soldiers killed in the 2003 battle against Assamese insurgents from India.

Day 4

Following a stop to watch the locals throwing darts outside in a friendly weekend competition (we later saw an archery competition), we hiked to the Khamsun Yulley Namgyel Chorten, a four-story shrine built by the royal family.

After a picnic lunch, we visited Punakha Dzong, a 17^th century fortress and Bhutan’s former winter capital. It is the second oldest and second largest dzong in all of Bhutan.

We then crossed one of the longest suspension pedestrian bridges in Bhutan.

Day 5

This morning we visited Chimi Lhakhang, a monastery and fertility temple dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kuenley, a Tibetan Buddhist saint known as “the divine madman.” The temple has served as a pilgrimage site for childless couples and even contains photo albums of the children born following these couples’ visits.

We drove to the Phobjikha Valley, known for the black-necked cranes that migrate here from Tibet in the winter. Following a nature walk, we visited the Black-Necked Crane Visitor Center, where there were two cranes, exhibits, and a film.

Day 6

In the morning, we took a walk through the meadows below Lawala Pass, which connects the districts of Punakha and Trongsa. Throughout the walk, we passed yaks and cows and the occasional local.

On the way to Trongsa, we stopped at Chendebji Chorten. It features Nepali-style architecture, including the signature eyes at the four cardinal points.

Day 7

In the morning we toured the Trongsa Dzong, the largest dzong fortress in Bhutan. We then visited the Ta Dzong Museum, which focuses on the history of the monarchs of Bhutan.

We then drove to the Bumthang district, stopping for lunch and a stroll through a weaving workshop before arriving at the Jambay Lkakhang Monastery.

Day 8

We walked through the village of Thangbi to a local farmhouse, where we had lunch and watched our hosts make buckwheat noodles and butter tea. We also went into their main altar room.

Day 9

Our flight from Bumthang to Paro was cancelled due to a storm so we spent much of the day driving back to Paro. We were reminded of the past eight days as we passed many of the sites we visited. We also had some incredible views from the van!

Day 10

This morning was one of the highlights of the trip—attending the Paro Tschechu. Seeing the thousands of Bhutanese in their finery, with joy and pride in their faces, was just as exciting as watching the dancers in their costumes and masks.

In the afternoon, we hiked up to the Dzongdrakha Temple (aka mini Takstang), built on a cliff above a village.

Day 11

Early morning risers were rewarded with a return to the Paro Tschechu to see the unveiled thongdrel, a giant embroidered religious scroll depicting Guru Rinpoche.

We all then hiked up to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery, perched on a cliff. Visiting this best known site in Bhutan was worth the 2,200 feet ascent/descent.

After lunch, we visited a nunnery in Paro. It was an amazing experience watching the nuns handcraft an offering and listening to them chant and play instruments.

Day 12

We said our good-byes to our gracious guides and driver and departed Paro for Bangkok and flights back home.

—Text and photos by 15-time WT adventurer Lee Reichman, Hiker’s Journey to Bhutan.

The post Cultural and Hiking Journey in Bhutan appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

We love the landscapes and wilderness of Patagonia. Having visited this remote region of the world four times before, including one hiking trip on both the Chilean and Argentina side, we jumped at the opportunity to return to Patagonia for a fifth time on Wilderness Travel’s brand new adventure, Remote Parks of Patagonia’s Wild North.

Attracting us was the undiscovered nature of this area and the opportunity to see what conservation efforts can do to help maintain these wild spaces.

After arriving in Puerto Montt and connecting with our group, we headed to the nature reserve of Lahuen Ñadi where Alerce trees are preserved. We visited what we believed were the oldest trees on the planet (bristlecone pines) in the past, so we were awed with these Alerce trees that have been identified as being even older. The forest that shelters these trees is a lush and beautiful temperate rainforest. 

The next morning we traveled from Puerto Varas to hike up the Paso Desolación trail for a view of two snow-capped volcanoes, Osorno and Calbuco. Patagonia is known for its variable weather and we were fortunate as it was the only day with slight rain. This did not impede our enjoyment of hiking through the Patagonia forests, which opened up to a large open area where we could see the effect of past volcanic activity on the landscape. Osorno is an impressive sight and important landmark of the area.

Later that evening, we listened to a presentation from a representative of Rewilding Chile to learn about the Tompkins Conservation efforts that led to the creation of the new national parks in the area. As you visit these parks, it’s easy to appreciate the result of these passionate conservationists and their mission to preserve natural habitats.

We enjoyed a scenic flight to the town of Chaitén where we visited Pumalín National Park. The area covered in this journey is remote, and traveling by small aircraft allowed us to cover distances that would have not been possible in the 10-day trip. 

In Pumalín National Park, it was thrilling to hike the Sendero los Alerces trail and stand next to towering 3,000 year old Alerce trees. The lush ancient temperate rainforest was alive with plants, fungi, frogs, and snails. It was rewarding to be in such a healthy forest compared with some of the ones we have back home.

After several other hikes exploring Pumalín, we traveled to Patagonia National Park. Taking our private charter flight to Aysén, we were able to view Chile’s impressive Northern Patagonian Icefield. 

Traveling south brought us from the temperate rainforest to the open steppes of Patagonia National Park. We stopped for a short walk to the confluence of the Río Nef and Río Baker, Chile’s largest river by volume—the water color is so rich and beautiful—then checked into our beautiful lodge that overlooked the river. The meals we enjoyed at the lodge were five-star, especially after long hiking days.

We were impressed with the trail infrastructure in the national parks. Suspension bridges, signage, and trail maintenance showed a lot of care and attention. The variety of hikes gave us a wide sample of the wilderness and land. Hiking in pristine wilderness is not that easy to find these days, and the opportunity to be guided where we learn about the natural history of this land rounded out the physical aspect of the trip. We have been fortunate to do some wonderful hiking in our lifetime around the world. To be in the wide open spaces of Patagonia is a special treat and seeing the impact of conservation efforts of a few individuals and the difference they can make is heartwarming.

Leaving Patagonia National Park, we made our way towards Cerro Castillo National Park. We took a break from hiking and kayaked on incredible waters to rock formations known as Marble Chapels or Marble Caves. Another reminder of the natural beauty of our world.

Our last hike in Cerro Castillo Park capped off the trip. Taking the Sendero Camping Neozelandés trail, we reached our lunch spot where we sat in an amphitheater-type setting surrounded by iconic peaks of Patagonia—jagged spires, hanging glaciers, and rock formations.

The dramatic vistas and sights we experienced on this journey exceeded our expectations and who knows, maybe there will be a sixth time to Patagonia in the future.

—Text and photos by 2-time WT adventurers John and Cathy Yee, Remote Parks of Patagonia’s Wild North.

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Day 1

After meeting with our group in Ajaccio, we made our way to Filitosa, a prehistoric archaeological site in southern Corsica known for its mysterious megalithic structures and ancient stone statues. We saw a lot on today’s walk—from menhir statues carved in granite that date back 8,000 years to a visit to the Museum of Filitosa, where you can learn more about the history of these human-shaped stone carvings.

The site is peaceful, with a steady, easy walk along well-marked dirt paths. Some sections are slightly uneven, but overall, it’s a relaxed route that allows time to take in the surroundings.

From here, we moved on to Sartène, where we strolled through the town’s narrow, winding cobblestone alleys. For our Welcome Dinner, we dined at our first traditional Corsican restaurant.

Day 4

On this day, we explored the city of Bonifacio, walking through its steep, cobbled streets and taking in its rich history. We visited landmarks including the Citadel of Bonifacio, the Old Town (Haute Ville), and Saint-Dominique Church (Église Saint-Dominique), each offering a glimpse into the town’s medieval past.

From here, we followed the trail along Sentier de Campu eRumanilu and Pertusatu. The path began as a smooth walkway but quickly turned into a more rugged dirt trail. The views from the cliffs were incredible, looking straight down at the blue water crashing against the limestone below.

We spent about four hours walking around the city and along the cliffs before enjoying a late lunch at a shepherd’s farm. Here, we sampled different types of Corsican goat cheeses and enjoyed a delicious Corsican homemade meal.

Day 5

We caught the morning ferry for a one-hour ride across the Straits of Bonifacio to Sardinia, where we set out on a three-hour hike in Capo Testa, located at the northernmost tip of the island. This hike is relatively easy to moderate, but what made it unforgettable were the granite rock formations and the panoramic views of the Mediterranean.

The trail at Capo Testa took us through rugged terrain with sections of large, weathered boulders shaped by centuries of wind and sea. Some parts required scrambling over rocks, while other sections had uneven footing, making it tricky to use hiking poles. Despite this, with the help of our Trip Leaders, we navigated the trail without issue.

After the hike, we headed to the town of Santa Teresa di Gallura for lunch. Our group sampled eight different local fish dishes, which paired perfectly with a bottle of Ichnusa, Sardinia’s beloved local beer.

In the afternoon, we drove 2.5 hours to Alghero, making a stop in Codrongianos to visit the Church of the Holy Trinity of Saccargia (Chiesa della Santissima Trinità di Saccargia). Built in the 11th-12th century during the period of the Judicates, this Romanesque church is one of Sardinia’s most significant and best-preserved churches, constructed from striking layers of limestone and lava rock.

We continue on to the Catalan-influenced city of Alghero. Once a major maritime power in the 14th century, this city thrived as a naval base and trading hub. We spent two hours walking through the narrow, winding alleys and cobblestone pathways of the Old Town (Centro Storico), learning about its unique blend of Italian and Catalan influences. The streets were lively with travelers, and shops sold traditional Sardinian crafts like coral jewelry, handwoven textiles, and local wines. We also saw the traditional Sardinian masks known as “Mamuthones” and “Issohadores,” famous for their role in Sardinia’s carnival celebrations.

Day 6

We began our day in Porto Conte Regional Natural Park, located on the northwest coast of Sardinia. This park is home to ancient Neolithic and Nuragic sites, including the famous Nuraghe of Palmavera, an ancient stone fortress and village complex built around 1900 BCE.

Our hike started on a wide dirt road that runs along the coast, winding through a dense pine forest. The path was on the coast, and was mostly compact dirt with some occasional loose stones, making for a relatively easy walk. As we neared the cliffs of Punta Giglio, the terrain became noticeably rockier and uneven, requiring more careful footing.

After the hike, we returned to Alghero, where we have the evening free to explore the city on our own.

Day 7

We had an early start to our day, heading to the base of a mountain just south of Cuglieri, a charming hilltop town in western Sardinia. Our Trip Leader led our group on a private trail in an area that isn’t open to the public, making it feel like a true off-the-beaten-path experience.

The hike started on wide dirt paths with mostly packed earth, becoming more uneven as we gained elevation. The incline started gradually but quickly steepened, climbing about 1,300 feet with stops for water breaks. The trail became narrower as we entered a forested area, weaving through dense vegetation. At one point, our Trip Leader had to cut through thick bushes to clear a path for us, adding to the sense of remoteness.

As we approached the top, the trail became increasingly rugged, but it was well worth it at the summit, where we were rewarded with an incredible panoramic view of the ocean stretching into the horizon and the rolling mountains that surrounded us.

For the descent, we took a different route down the other side of the mountain, where the terrain remained rocky but more manageable. Along the way, we stopped at a natural spring, a refreshing break before finishing the hike in the town of Seneghe.

We had lunch under the shade of a massive Holm oak tree, a species native to the region, and from there we visited the Santa Cristina site, home to an ancient Nuragic well temple.

We finally made our way to Oristano, a laid-back city with a mix of medieval history and coastal influences. Walking through the city, we passed along a mix of smoothly paved streets and cobblestone alleys, lined with colorful buildings that showcased medieval, Baroque, and neoclassical architecture. Dinner was at a traditional Sardinian restaurant, where we ended the meal with Mirto, a local myrtle liqueur known for its digestive properties and rich, aromatic flavor.

Day 8

After breakfast, we set off to explore the coastal lagoon of Stagno di Cabras, located on the Sinis Peninsula. The weather was perfect for birdwatching, and we spotted a variety of species, including flamingos and marsh harriers.

The hike around Cabras was mostly flat, but the terrain varied between packed dirt, sandy patches, and rocky sections. The three-mile trail was mostly through open landscapes with little shade. As we got closer to the cliffs, the dirt paths became more uneven, with loose stones scattered along the way. During a sunny day and limited shade, sunscreen and a hat were essential.

The trail eventually leads to a beachfront restaurant, where we cooled off with a refreshing swim in the stunning blue waters of the Mediterranean before enjoying a meal of fresh local fish.

Back in Oristano, we took time to wash up at the hotel before heading out to explore more of the city. With the evening free, you can wander through the streets, soaking in the atmosphere. My sister and I found some great little hole-in-the-wall restaurants and bars, where the locals were incredibly welcoming.

Day 9

We made our way to the Dorgali province, driving through small towns, vineyards, and rugged mountain landscapes.

Today’s hike on Monte Tiscali was challenging but rewarding, with a mix of rocky, uneven paths and steep ascents and descents. The trail took us through breathtaking views, ancient ruins, and unique geological features. Some sections were shaded by sparse forest, and the ground was covered in loose stones, making footing tricky. The hike involved navigating winding paths and rocky slopes, requiring careful steps as we made our way up.

One of the most striking parts of the hike was the unique rock formations with a wave-like texture, a reminder that this mountain was once the ocean floor. The terrain became increasingly rugged and craggy as we climbed higher until we reached the ancient village of Tiscali.

Tiscali was the highlight of the day. Standing in front of the collapsed limestone cave and learning about Sardinia’s prehistoric past made all the effort worth it. The sight of the ancient stone structures hidden within the mountain was incredible, offering a glimpse into a civilization that once thrived in this secluded spot.

After the hike, we made our way to our charming hotel. Every corner of the hotel was filled with unique artwork, traditional clothing, and fascinating artifacts, making it feel like a cultural experience in itself. The view of the mountains from our room was perfect—peaceful and refreshing after a long day on the trail. That evening, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at the hotel, sampling local dishes like malloreddus (Sardinian pasta), porceddu (roast suckling pig), and seadas, a traditional Sardinian dessert.

The post What to Expect Hiking in Corsica and Sardinia appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

This time, we began the trip on Caprivi Strip in Namibia’s northeast corner just across the river from Chobe National Park in Botswana. Boating up river to Elephant Bay, we saw Cape Buffalo and monitor lizards, fearsome crocs and numerous water birds. We also watched parades of elephants gathering next to the river and a pride of lions eying the calves. Were they waiting to make a kill? Or were the lions thirsty?

We never got the answer because several bull elephants came charging onto the scene and scared the lions away.

A quick flight from Vic Falls brought us to Nehimba Lodge, our first camp in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. Here, the waterholes and lodge swimming pool were teeming with elephants.

We also spent a very windy morning at a nearby waterhole with two male lions and some of the Ponies (daughters of the aptly named Horse, the largest female lion anyone has ever seen in the park).

On our final morning at Nehimba, we found ourselves in the middle of an epic “battle.” A group of Cape Buffalo “Dagga boys” had just enjoyed a mud wallow and were on the move across the veld, when the Ponies started stealthily encircling them. From out of nowhere, an impala came charging across the clearing, a wild dog in close pursuit and barking loudly for reinforcements from the pack. And into the middle of all this chaos, a hapless young male lion came sauntering. All the animals scattered in different directions!

We took the famous open-air Elephant Express train along the park boundary south to Camelthorn Lodge. This was another change from the original itinerary. We spent lovely days visiting the regional Ngamo High School where the students welcomed us with singing and dancing.

Afterward, we picnicked at a waterhole while watching elephants come out of the bush to quench their thirst. But for us, the highlight was spending time with Thuza and Kusasa, the two endangered Southern white rhinos at the Community Conservation Rhino Sanctuary right next door to Camelthorn.

A long drive brought us to Jozibanini Camp. We’d spent time at Jozi on our previous visit, but it never gets old. Morning games drives let us see so many animals, especially birds and giraffe. Late in the afternoons and early evenings, we spent in the hide—a shipping container partially buried in the Kalahari sand. To see hundreds of elephants lumbering out of the bush, the babies and juveniles charging past their mothers and aunties was sheer joy! One day we watched as a calf slipped in the mud and landed butt down in one of the boreholes. His screams were heart wrenching, but his mother calmly lifted him out with her foot. He stayed close by her after that but was none the worse for the frightening experience.

We think the sunsets were even more beautiful during this visit, and as photographers, we enjoyed playing with the light.

—Text and photos by 15-time WT adventurers Jeannée Sacken and Michael Briselli, Great Elephant Migration Safari. Read about their first Great Elephant Migration Safari here.

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In October of 2024, I had the chance to visit a destination that I’d been dreaming about for years. Since first learning of the soaring peaks of the High Atlas Mountains, the surfing coastal town of Essaouira, and the tranquility of the Sahara Desert, I knew Morocco was somewhere I needed to explore and experience for myself. So, I packed my bag, boarded a plane, and touched down in the land of orange-hued dunes, spice-scented souks, and ornately decorated riads. Below are my top five most memorable moments from my time in Morocco.

1. Exploring Chefchaouen

My adventure started in the blue-painted city of Chefchaouen. This picturesque town is perched on the hillside of the rugged Rif Mountains, offering stunning views and easy access to nature. After a day of exploring the winding streets of the city’s medina and souks, I had the opportunity to dine on our hotel’s terrace, which overlooked the entire city and its surrounding area. Not only was the meal delicious, but my dinner reservation was at sunset, allowing me to witness a vibrant sky of painted colors and a city slipping into nighttime.

2. Wandering the Souks in Fes

The city of Fes was unlike anything I’d ever experienced; a never-ending maze of narrow streets, donkeys transporting goods, sweet and savory scents drifting from restaurants, and the daily bustle of Moroccan life. Fes is famous for its handicrafts—rugs, ceramics, leather—and it was very special to go behind the scenes and see how each of these items were made. Each craft, created by hand, takes years of experience to learn and hone. What a privilege it was to meet and observe the locals who created the items I was purchasing.

3. A Magical Night in the Sahara Desert

In my opinion, a trip to Morocco is not complete without a stop in the Sahara Desert. I spent two nights sleeping under the stars in the middle of the desert amid towering dunes. One evening, we hopped on our camels and got lost in the sand until we found the perfect perch to watch the sun disappear. We dismounted our camels, climbed up a sand dune, and waited for the warm colors to appear across the sky. Sunsets in the desert are truly magic. The second evening at camp was an al fresco feast of tajine, accompanied by talented Gnaoua musicians, who played and danced aside a burning bonfire. Everything about my time in the Sahara only added to my list of highlights.

4. Adventuring in Dades Gorge

As someone who loves hiking and exploring mountainous regions, the Atlas Mountains were a part of the country I was excited to explore. From hiking in the Dades Gorge to navigating dirt roads through the surrounding peaks in an off-road vehicle, this day of our itinerary was a dream come true. The red-colored rock, the towering masses of stone, and the winding switchback roads reminded me of something I’d perhaps see in the Southwest of the United States. It was thrilling to get off the beaten track and immerse ourselves in this expansive mountain range.

5. Relaxing in Essaouira

Ending the trip in the seaside town of Essaouira was a great way to cap our tour of Morocco. The smell of the sea was a lovely addition to the scents of the mountain and desert regions, and the calmness of this white-washed town was a welcome change of pace. It was splendid to stroll the streets, wander the waterfront, and enjoy the Atlantic Ocean as the colors of sunrise and sunset danced across the waves. I could’ve spent days in this town getting lost amid all of the shops, eating fresh seafood, and walking the long expanse of sandy beach.

Morocco is one of those places that you truly need to experience for yourself. It’s unlike any other destination I’ve been to, and the variety of what Morocco offers makes a circumnavigation of the country so fascinating and fulfilling. If Morocco is not already on your travel list, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend adding it.

—Text and photos by WT staff Siena Helland, Morocco: Camels to Casbahs with extensions to Chefchaouen and Essaouira.

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In September 2024, we joined Wilderness Travel’s Wildlife Adventures in Borneo trip, which brought us to four different locations in northern Borneo’s rainforest: Sepilok Forest Reserve, Tabin Wildlife Reserve, the stunning Danum Valley, and along the Kinabatangan River.

Thanks to the guides, we saw a fantastic selection of wildlife: five different primates, two cats, skunk, deer, four types of hornbills, three birds of prey, three kingfishers, other birds, snakes, frogs, fireflies etc. Several of these were a real surprise, even to an avid David Attenborough fan.

The evening outings to search for nocturnal wildlife was particularly fun.

I began to appreciate how the diversity in this part of the world led William Wallace to his understanding of evolution at the same time as Darwin. Here is a video of some of the mammals we saw:

In the rainforest, most of the critters live high in the canopy, so binoculars and telephoto lenses are essential.

This also meant that they kept on disappearing behind branches and leaves after catching a glimpse. Without the guides we would have just seen trees galore. Here is a video of some of the birds, reptiles, and insects we saw on our trip:

The WT Trip Leaders were excellent, knowledgeable locals, and the guides at each resort were also first rate

To see all this wildlife, we lived in the rainforest environment, which was very hot and humid. Luckily it was less “buggy” than I expected, but the humidity added a challenging factor. As with all WT trips we have taken, we were kept on the go, with flexibility to take a break if you wanted. The accommodations were in comfortable forest resorts.

Here is a video of our entire trip:

—Text and photos by 5-time WT adventurer Michael Watts, Wildlife Adventures of Borneo.

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We arrived a few days early to acclimatize and explore the mountains that surround and hang over Zermatt. A funicular railway brought us up to the Gornergrat and we hiked along the Hohtalligrat ridge and alongside the tremendous Gornergletscher glacier descending from the summit of Monte Rosa. The massive peaks of Monte Rosa, Lyskamm, and the Matterhorn were always in view.

After a wonderful Welcome Dinner, the next day we ascended by cable car high to the peak of Klein Matterhorn and over into Italy.

With clear skies overhead, the views across the Swiss and Italian Alps were impressive. There the hiking began with a long hike down through the Vallone dell Cima Blanche. With a lot of lingering snow cover, the hiking at first took us across expansive snowfields. A steep descent took us past the still frozen Lago Grande and then wandering down through alpine meadows covered in wildflowers to welcome drinks at our hotel in the charming village of Champoluc.

We were up early the next morning for a short cable car ride up to the small hamlet of Cuneaz. From there the trail ascended at first through open, flower strewn meadows and then steeply up to the Col Pinter.

From the Col, the path descended steeply down to the meadows and then on down in a knee jarring descent to welcome cappuccinos at the Rifugio Alpenzu.

After a short rest we continued to our hotel in the alpine village of Gressoney-La-Trinité.

After a short day exploring the alpine meadows above Gressoney, we ascended across snowfields to the Passo Zube; but not without the welcome regular morning coffee that Dan carried in his pack. A quick descent down quite steep snow took to the Passo Foric.

From the pass, the path plunged steeply down into the beautiful Valle d’Otro. This was a highlight of the entire trip. Impressive waterfalls, thick carpets of wildflowers and tiny rustic hamlets took our attention away from the knee jarring descent down to the picturesque village of Alagna.

Unfortunately, bad weather intervened for the next two days so that we could not complete the planned hikes. We did manage some shorter hikes including a hike across snowfields to lunch at the Brittania Hutte above Saas Fee. We then enjoyed a wonderful long day hiking the Gsponer Hohenweg high above the valley to Saas Grund with the peaks of Mischabel Group across the valley.

The next morning after a bus ride from Saas Fee to the small village of Taschalp, we started our last hike along the Europaweg back to Zermatt. This follows an alpine bench high above the Mitterdal with wonderful views across to the Weisshorn and the Matterhorn. Our last descent took us down into Zermatt and our Farewell Dinner at a local restaurant.

Despite the bad weather at times, we all enjoyed wonderful hiking among the magnificent peaks. Our two guides Dan Windham and Mike Browder ensured we all had a wonderful and memorable experience.

— Text and photos by 3-time WT Adventurer David Winter, Tour de Monte Rosa.

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Annecy & Talloires, France

Our first hike of the trip was a short but lovely walk passing through a nature preserve. We stopped at a rock outcrop overlooking the lake then took a boat taxi up the lake to Annecy. The cliffs above Talloires are popular with paragliders and you can see them gliding in the background. We were then treated to a guided tour of old Annecy. The guide is a former dancer—she was both entertaining and highly knowledgeable. That night, we savored a Welcome Dinner at the hotel.

Our first hotel of the trip was a converted abbey, tucked away on the eastern side of Lake Annecy.  Paul Cézanne, the French painter, once stayed here. The view out of the hotel room certainly looked like a painting. 

The hike the next day was along an old stone path.

That evening we took a short van ride to a two-star Michelin restaurant, where we enjoyed a fabulous five-course meal!

Our group packed up and traveled in vans over a high mountain pass which was featured prominently in past Tour de France bike races. We were greeted at the top of the pass by light snowfall. The day’s hike proceeded up above the pass. The location of the British phone booth is important—it is the only place in the area with cell service!  We had a hearty lunch at a rustic refuge—The proprietor and her husband have a snail farm, and the resulting escargot was delicious.

We then proceeded to the Tarentaise Valley, stopping to get a tour of the Arpin wool processing and finished goods factory. The machines have been used for decades and several people in our group purchased a sweater or a jacket as a souvenir.

Our next hotel was a small one in Sainte Foy in the Tarenstaise Valley. The bar is a gathering place for the locals and the view from the deck was great.

The next day our hike went uphill, through a small village, and continued to hike up to a saddle, where our Trip Leader Tania led the group in yoga stretching, which was followed by lunch and a group photo.

That evening, we went to a chalet owned by a friend of the guides. The festive meal seemed like a large holiday family gathering, but with different fare.

Courmayeur, Italy

The next day we traveled over the first St. Bernard pass, then descended into the Courmayeur area.  The weather was warmer, and it stayed this way for most of the rest of the trip (except at high elevations, where it remained cooler).

Our next hike brought us to a series of waterfalls and views of Mont Blanc could be seen in the distance. Some of the group then went to a spa that originated with the Romans. Dinner was at a unique Courmayeur restaurant.

The next day involved riding the Skyway tram up to Point Helbronner at 11,358 ft. The cylindrical tram rotated 360 degrees several times on the ascent! The weather at the top was cold but clear, providing dramatic views in every direction, including Mont Blanc and other peaks.

After the Skyway tram ride back down, we took a van ride to the “challenge hike”. The path is part of the traditional Tour du Mont Blanc. A tasty picnic salad lunch was followed by a group photo.  Part of the group proceeded up to the Elizabeth refuge.

The views each morning from the Courmayeur hotel room windows were stunning.

Aosta, Italy

Our group traveled down the Aosta Valley to Aosta, with beautiful views of vineyards on steep slopes along the way. A local guide gave us a tour of old Aosta, which included Roman ruins. That night the group had a cooking class at a 1-star Michelin restaurant, followed by a multi-course meal.

Switzerland

The next day involved a van ride to the second St. Bernard pass. When we visited, the famous dogs were being filmed for a documentary. We hiked above the lake, then had our picnic lunch inside the monastery.

The van then took us down the valley where we then hiked up to a very small village perched on a hill.  All of the chalets were made of stone with slate roofs. Our hotel was actually a few of the chalets that had been purchased and renovated inside. A special meal involved raclette prepared by the fireplace in a cozy stone “cave” and early risers the next morning were treated to a full moon.

We hiked the next day to a high ridge overlooking the Verbier town and ski area, then descended to a different ridge for a picnic lunch. The view was incredible! After the hike there was an optional excursion to an art museum in the small town of Martigny. The museum had a special exhibit of  Cézanne and Renoir paintings on loan from two Paris museums.  There was also a collection of old cars in a lower level, including cars built in Switzerland, as well as a large sculpture garden that included a Rodin.

Before dinner there was a special musical treat—a performance with traditional Swiss alpine horns. A solo rendition of “Amazing Grace” was particularly moving.

Chamonix, France

The final stop on our journey brought us to Chamonix. A cog railway took the group to the Mer de Glace glacier. We went inside the glacier ice, where Christelle, an environmental scientist and conservationist, gave an informative talk on the state of the glaciers and certain birds and animals.  She then accompanied the group on a hike above the glacier. After the hike, a well-earned Prosecco toast was given, with the Dru peak in the background.

Our Farewell Dinner was in Chamonix. The view of Mont Blanc from the hotel room windows was unforgettable.

On the departing morning (Day 11) the sun was again shining on the Chamonix Valley.   A trip of a lifetime!

—Text and photos by two-time WT adventurer Richard George, Treasures of Mont Blanc.

The post Hiking Mont Blanc’s Trails in Autumn appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

In 1982 my husband Dave and I had the unique opportunity to visit many of the outlying islands off the eastern coast of Papua New Guinea. We were on board the adventure ship, MS World Discoverer. For three weeks, we snorkeled and dove amid the beautiful underwater wilderness and amazing coral reefs. Ever since, we’ve traveled the world, always looking for great snorkeling and diving wherever possible.

Since we weren’t getting any younger, we decided to seek out the highly regarded Raja Ampat area, in what is considered the “Coral Triangle” of West Papua, while we could still get in and out of a boat! The area is rich in nutrients and home to a diverse array of marine life, partly due to the many oceans and seas whose currents pass through. This, coupled with very little development in the thousands of islands within the widespread archipelago of Indonesia makes for a sea-rich environment that thrives in all its biodiversity!

With a little research, we signed up with the well-regarded Wilderness Travel on their Snorkeling Raja Ampat adventure. Although their trip is typically a snorkeling expedition, our group of 11 friends were able to charter a private departure that offered scuba diving opportunities. Their crew of nine, including several dive masters and underwater guides, took fabulous care of our private group!    

We boarded the 100-foot Indonesian schooner in the small port town of Sorong and our venture into these western islands of Indonesia had begun! Our first day of snorkeling had us feeling like we had truly returned to what we had experienced in 1982! The thousands of beautiful tropical fish were everywhere and the coral reefs went on and on for miles. Gorgeous butterflyfish, bannerfish, triggerfish, wrasses, squirrelfish, boxfish, pufferfish and porcupinefish, as well as trumpetfish and even pygmy seahorses intermingled with lovely little damsel fish, and anemones filled with colorful orange-red and white “nemos” clown fish. They were everywhere! One count in a 24-hour period came up with 815 different species, although I’ve seen 1,600 listed as the number of species overall.

Every day we were in the water for two, 2-hour snorkels. At first, I thought, “how could anyone snorkel for so long?” considering how little there was to see in past snorkeling areas we visited. It was amazing how you could just float through the coral reefs at your own pace, often carried gently by soft currents. The “pick-up boat” followed our group throughout the snorkel, always ready to come over and pick anyone up when they were ready—just raise your hand and they were there! One of our guides in the water always had a floatation device that he took with him along the way so anyone could hang on and rest, or adjust your mask, ask questions, etc.  Both underwater guides had little “etch-a-sketch” type underwater notebooks and were often writing out the name of the species that they were pointing out along the way.  They also had eagle eyes underwater, spotting so many little creatures like nudibranchs, mantis shrimp that we weren’t so quick to identify ourselves, and even the odd-looking wobbegong shark, hiding beneath the sea of fishes just waiting for his lunch! 

Let’s not forget the massive corals and sponges too! Over 600 different corals! Plate corals that were 15 feet across, Gorgonian fan corals that were 6 feet wide. Leather corals that I’d never seen before; giant, truly lush and so healthy, were undulating in the currents. There were soft raspberry corals, huge brain corals and staghorn corals that went on like a never-ending forest in some places. These corals were just amazing and awesome in their underwater vastness!

We did have four casual divers on board (not serious, but eager enough to want to try our hand at the diving scenario). It was wonderful, but in hindsight I truly think the snorkeling would be enough. All the corals and fish are right under the surface. One thing about snorkeling verses diving is that you can stay out a long longer, not having to worry about running out of air in your tanks. We moved each day to a new area, enjoying a morning snorkel where we had overnighted then cruising to a new area over lunch and were back in the water for an afternoon snorkel in a new place. Every snorkel site we visited had some new or different fish, coral, and marine life. Our Trip Leader was always there to point out in the guide books what we should be looking for at each new place. He also presented an educational and often amusing evening lecture on the top deck under the brilliant stars each night after dinner, usually with visuals and charts projected on a screen.  

Of course, the itinerary is all subject to weather and sea conditions so the Trip Leader and the captain would determine which islands we’d go to each day, which route, etc. Some of the islands we visited were Waigeo, with its many nooks and crannies of coastline and coral reefs, Gam, Wayag (the jewel in the crown of Raja Ampat), and many others, isolated and on their own.

We did some amazing mangrove snorkeling as well, which opened up an interesting new world of different kinds of fish, like archer fish who spit at bugs hanging on the branches above the waterline, dropping them in to the water for a little feast, or cardinalfish, all harboring in and around the extensive mangrove trees with their roots and underwater world, so different from other coral habitats.

We also saw tons of lion fish of every size, often under small village docks or along the underwater carved ledges of the limestone islands everywhere. We saw tons of barrel sponges and giant clams spanning nearly six feet, with their blue and purple mantles and giant siphons undulating beneath us. We spotted a few manta rays, even though we were at the end of the manta season! Other creatures that graced us with their presence included octopus, cuttlefish (we even saw one laying its eggs in the coral!), lots of turtles, even a few lobsters and eels!

One of the most amazing experiences that stayed with me after leaving Raja Ampat were the thousands and thousands of schools of fish—rivers of fish, going this way and that way, different species, different colors, just great bands of amazing colorful scores of fish! There were also many giant schools of fish just moving about in big bait balls of sorts! Every time we got out of the water and back to the boat, our friends couldn’t stop talking about how awesome it was! Since Dave and I had put this cruise together, they said they would forever be indebted to us! It was so fun to share the experience with some of our oldest and dearest friends from so many years. 

Most of our group was 64-75 years old, and all in pretty good shape. Our son Davis was 35 and happy to join us as well as another spouse who was 60. They were the “youngsters.” One friend had only last year learned to swim at 75! Some wore inflated swim vests on top of their skins or wetsuits. No one was left behind or afraid at all. Even when we were in the water with lots of (well-fed) sharks, we all seemed to be in amazement rather than hold any kind of fear.

On Wag island and in the general area, we had the area almost all to ourselves. No other boats showed up, except for a few passing local canoes and the crew tied up our boat between rocky islands whenever possible, so as not have to drop the anchor. Some of the hardier on board headed to shore and hiked up the step and rocky trail to an overhead view of our setting, with the boat and its amazing overhead view of the islands and bays all around us. Some of us indulged in our own private white-sand beach on several excursions ashore. Sometimes the galley chefs and crew brought everything ashore for a special island lunch or happy hour for everyone. The food was always creative and delicious!  I couldn’t imagine a more pristine island or paradisical setting. We were very spoiled and loving every minute of it!

I would encourage anyone who loves snorkeling to find their way to Raja Ampat. Luckily for now, it’s still quite healthy with no coral bleaching and the number of species defy the eye! I will forever keep the peaceful, calming memories of floating among the fish and corals of this magnificent area in my mind, and when asked to “go to your happy place,” there I will be!

—Text and photos by WT adventurer Danita Delimont, videos by Trip Leader Bob Brunskill, Snorkeling Raja Ampat (private departure).

The post Exploring the Coral Triangle in Raja Ampat appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

On our first day in Switzerland, we left Lucerne (Luzern), crossed the lake by boat, then rode a cable car to the trailhead of our first hike towards the summit of Mt. Rigi. 

Along the way, we stopped at a cheese making spot for lunch and enjoyed a fun presentation on cheese making. 

Then we continued hiking to the top, enjoyed the view, and took a cogwheel train back to Lake Lucerne.

For several days, we hiked in the high alps, including below the Eiger (Ogre) the Monch (Monk) and the Jungfrau (Young Virgin).

At the gondola station mid-way to Murren, we got to see a rare double rainbow! The photo does not do it justice—its colors were even more spectacular in person.

We traveled to Kandersteg and hiked above and around Lake Oeschinensee.

Ringed by mountains, this wildly picturesque glacial valley with its traditional chalets has been famous destination for hikers looking for that classic Alps adventure.

On our final outing, we hiked though beautiful vineyards above Lake Geneva. 

At a small wine producer, we enjoyed a wine tasting presentation and an outdoor lunch.

We eventually arrived at Montreux on Lake Geneva.  We took a group photo at the Freddie Mercury statue, then we toured the castle and had a pleasant boat ride to Vevey.

We savored our final sunset out on Lake Geneva near the Fork in the Lake. The picture-perfect ending to a wonderful adventure in Switzerland.

—Text and photos by WT adventurer Richard George, Hiking the Heart of Switzerland.

The post September in Switzerland appeared first on Wilderness Travel.