In 1982 my husband Dave and I had the unique opportunity to visit many of the outlying islands off the eastern coast of Papua New Guinea. We were on board the adventure ship, MS World Discoverer. For three weeks, we snorkeled and dove amid the beautiful underwater wilderness and amazing coral reefs. Ever since, we’ve traveled the world, always looking for great snorkeling and diving wherever possible.

Since we weren’t getting any younger, we decided to seek out the highly regarded Raja Ampat area, in what is considered the “Coral Triangle” of West Papua, while we could still get in and out of a boat! The area is rich in nutrients and home to a diverse array of marine life, partly due to the many oceans and seas whose currents pass through. This, coupled with very little development in the thousands of islands within the widespread archipelago of Indonesia makes for a sea-rich environment that thrives in all its biodiversity!

With a little research, we signed up with the well-regarded Wilderness Travel on their Snorkeling Raja Ampat adventure. Although their trip is typically a snorkeling expedition, our group of 11 friends were able to charter a private departure that offered scuba diving opportunities. Their crew of nine, including several dive masters and underwater guides, took fabulous care of our private group!    

We boarded the 100-foot Indonesian schooner in the small port town of Sorong and our venture into these western islands of Indonesia had begun! Our first day of snorkeling had us feeling like we had truly returned to what we had experienced in 1982! The thousands of beautiful tropical fish were everywhere and the coral reefs went on and on for miles. Gorgeous butterflyfish, bannerfish, triggerfish, wrasses, squirrelfish, boxfish, pufferfish and porcupinefish, as well as trumpetfish and even pygmy seahorses intermingled with lovely little damsel fish, and anemones filled with colorful orange-red and white “nemos” clown fish. They were everywhere! One count in a 24-hour period came up with 815 different species, although I’ve seen 1,600 listed as the number of species overall.

Every day we were in the water for two, 2-hour snorkels. At first, I thought, “how could anyone snorkel for so long?” considering how little there was to see in past snorkeling areas we visited. It was amazing how you could just float through the coral reefs at your own pace, often carried gently by soft currents. The “pick-up boat” followed our group throughout the snorkel, always ready to come over and pick anyone up when they were ready—just raise your hand and they were there! One of our guides in the water always had a floatation device that he took with him along the way so anyone could hang on and rest, or adjust your mask, ask questions, etc.  Both underwater guides had little “etch-a-sketch” type underwater notebooks and were often writing out the name of the species that they were pointing out along the way.  They also had eagle eyes underwater, spotting so many little creatures like nudibranchs, mantis shrimp that we weren’t so quick to identify ourselves, and even the odd-looking wobbegong shark, hiding beneath the sea of fishes just waiting for his lunch! 

Let’s not forget the massive corals and sponges too! Over 600 different corals! Plate corals that were 15 feet across, Gorgonian fan corals that were 6 feet wide. Leather corals that I’d never seen before; giant, truly lush and so healthy, were undulating in the currents. There were soft raspberry corals, huge brain corals and staghorn corals that went on like a never-ending forest in some places. These corals were just amazing and awesome in their underwater vastness!

We did have four casual divers on board (not serious, but eager enough to want to try our hand at the diving scenario). It was wonderful, but in hindsight I truly think the snorkeling would be enough. All the corals and fish are right under the surface. One thing about snorkeling verses diving is that you can stay out a long longer, not having to worry about running out of air in your tanks. We moved each day to a new area, enjoying a morning snorkel where we had overnighted then cruising to a new area over lunch and were back in the water for an afternoon snorkel in a new place. Every snorkel site we visited had some new or different fish, coral, and marine life. Our Trip Leader was always there to point out in the guide books what we should be looking for at each new place. He also presented an educational and often amusing evening lecture on the top deck under the brilliant stars each night after dinner, usually with visuals and charts projected on a screen.  

Of course, the itinerary is all subject to weather and sea conditions so the Trip Leader and the captain would determine which islands we’d go to each day, which route, etc. Some of the islands we visited were Waigeo, with its many nooks and crannies of coastline and coral reefs, Gam, Wayag (the jewel in the crown of Raja Ampat), and many others, isolated and on their own.

We did some amazing mangrove snorkeling as well, which opened up an interesting new world of different kinds of fish, like archer fish who spit at bugs hanging on the branches above the waterline, dropping them in to the water for a little feast, or cardinalfish, all harboring in and around the extensive mangrove trees with their roots and underwater world, so different from other coral habitats.

We also saw tons of lion fish of every size, often under small village docks or along the underwater carved ledges of the limestone islands everywhere. We saw tons of barrel sponges and giant clams spanning nearly six feet, with their blue and purple mantles and giant siphons undulating beneath us. We spotted a few manta rays, even though we were at the end of the manta season! Other creatures that graced us with their presence included octopus, cuttlefish (we even saw one laying its eggs in the coral!), lots of turtles, even a few lobsters and eels!

One of the most amazing experiences that stayed with me after leaving Raja Ampat were the thousands and thousands of schools of fish—rivers of fish, going this way and that way, different species, different colors, just great bands of amazing colorful scores of fish! There were also many giant schools of fish just moving about in big bait balls of sorts! Every time we got out of the water and back to the boat, our friends couldn’t stop talking about how awesome it was! Since Dave and I had put this cruise together, they said they would forever be indebted to us! It was so fun to share the experience with some of our oldest and dearest friends from so many years. 

Most of our group was 64-75 years old, and all in pretty good shape. Our son Davis was 35 and happy to join us as well as another spouse who was 60. They were the “youngsters.” One friend had only last year learned to swim at 75! Some wore inflated swim vests on top of their skins or wetsuits. No one was left behind or afraid at all. Even when we were in the water with lots of (well-fed) sharks, we all seemed to be in amazement rather than hold any kind of fear.

On Wag island and in the general area, we had the area almost all to ourselves. No other boats showed up, except for a few passing local canoes and the crew tied up our boat between rocky islands whenever possible, so as not have to drop the anchor. Some of the hardier on board headed to shore and hiked up the step and rocky trail to an overhead view of our setting, with the boat and its amazing overhead view of the islands and bays all around us. Some of us indulged in our own private white-sand beach on several excursions ashore. Sometimes the galley chefs and crew brought everything ashore for a special island lunch or happy hour for everyone. The food was always creative and delicious!  I couldn’t imagine a more pristine island or paradisical setting. We were very spoiled and loving every minute of it!

I would encourage anyone who loves snorkeling to find their way to Raja Ampat. Luckily for now, it’s still quite healthy with no coral bleaching and the number of species defy the eye! I will forever keep the peaceful, calming memories of floating among the fish and corals of this magnificent area in my mind, and when asked to “go to your happy place,” there I will be!

—Text and photos by WT adventurer Danita Delimont, videos by Trip Leader Bob Brunskill, Snorkeling Raja Ampat (private departure).

The post Exploring the Coral Triangle in Raja Ampat appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

The Faroe Islands are a magical place that envelops you inside emerald green velvety mountains surrounded by sapphire blue seas. It is the “Land of Maybe,” where the mist and clouds roll in, crowning the already dramatic landscapes with an aura of mystery.

Black houses covered in roofs of green grass resemble something out of a fantasy fiction novel. 

The steep cliffs plummet from high, down to the ocean, forming dramatic coastlines.

The islands fill the panorama with endless vast beauty. Looking up from the boat tour, you’re dwarfed by the 2000-foot cliffs that appear like giants.  

It feels as though you are in a fairytale land far from civilization, but the warmth and friendliness of the locals make you feel at home—like you belong there.   

Experiencing farm-to-table meals inside the homes and small eateries were as extraordinary as Michelin-starred restaurants. Lamb from their flocks of sheep, salmon fresh from the sea, and fragrant rhubarb accents abound many dishes.

Small towns of brightly colored houses nestled in the mountain crevasse, always bordering the sea, and always accompanied by a quaint little church, with painted interiors and ships that dangle from the ceiling.  

Hiking along verdant pastures and up to majestic mountains framed in waterfalls will fill your soul with awe.

While you crest the mountaintop, the scenery opens up to even more unimaginable beauty and takes your breath away. And then you see puffins, adorable and animated residents of the sea cliffs. Such wonder and beauty are around every bend and corner of this magnificent archipelago.

—Text and photos by three-time WT adventurer Valerie Gulling, Hiking the Faroe Islands.

The post Reflections from the Faroe Islands appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

During the two weeks I spent in the Galápagos—a group of 15 islands on the equator, about 500 miles west of Ecuador—I shot more than 8,000 images, kept less than 300, and am now sharing 12 of them for this blog. The extended photo-essay format can work well as an online gallery on a single subject such as this one, or even as a self-published photographic book. 

Flying Frigatebird | Punta Carrion, Isabela Island

The brilliant inflated red throat pouch draws the eye into this image. The pouch also is designed to attract a potential mate. There were many Frigates drifting along the hills, using their seven-foot wide wingspans to ride the air currents and soar over the stands of palo santo trees that covered this area. The energy of this image comes from the dueling diagonal thrusts of the wing angle and the contrasting slope of the hill.

Molting Land Iguana | South Plaza Island

This closeup of a land iguana speaks of the prehistoric past. This one is molting—I could see its skin peeling away from its back. I noticed many photographers taking pictures of these iguanas from a standing position, which diminishes them in scale and de-emphasizes expression. I moved my camera as low to the ground as possible, and framed the image in my fold-out LCD viewfinder, stressing the impassive expression and the effect of the peeling skin.

Sea Lions and Crabs | Santa Fe Island

These rocks were about a half-mile offshore of Santa Fe Island. I framed the image so the foreground was rich in waves and spray that bathe the rocks behind them. The rocks are covered with red Sally Lightfoot crabs. Two Galápagos Sea Lions seem to own these rocks—one sleeps while the other stands guard. Life in and around the Galápagos resides on both land and sea, and places such as this represent a blend of both. I was shooting from a raft that was being tossed about by the waves. In order to stabilize this 200mm focal length shot, I had to use a shutter speed of 1/2000th of a second—ten times faster than normal in order to avoid blur due to camera shake.

Nesting Waved Albatrosses | Punta Saurez, Espanola Island

The sole nesting ground for Waved Albatrosses is here on Espanola Island. It is vast, accommodating over 12,000 pairs at a time. The scene is chaotic, and demands photographic simplification. I chose to concentrate on just one pair, and made this family portrait as one member of a pair sits on the nest in the foreground while the other looms over it in the background. The male and female split the next sitting duties, so I was unable to identify the gender roles here. But that is not important—instead, I try to express the bond between the two as defined by their deliberate positioning and the matching placid expressions that tell the story of nesting albatrosses. I also stress the subtle yellow feather coloring that matches the colors of their beaks.

Dancing Blue Footed Boobies | Punta Suarez, Española Island

The behavior of the blue footed booby is most clown-like during courtship. It appeared to me that this pair was engaged in a courtship dance, as they shuffled their huge blue feet from side to side, virtually mimicking each other’s moves. I photographed them above, something I rarely do with birds, since a high vantage point often tends to diminish them in scale. But in this case, an overhead viewpoint was warranted—I am able to stress the color and position of the feet, which tell the story here.

Mating Waved Albatrosses | Punta Suarez, Española Island

Our visit to Española Island was capped by this opportunity—allowing me to capture what appears to be a gesture of affection expressed by a pair of waved albatrosses during its mating dance. Only the heads and necks are visible, as they emerge from the tangle of vegetation to join beak tips with a gentle tapping sound. Wildlife photography can often express human values, even though the subjects themselves may not be human. This image offers a good example of this. As human beings, we can see and feel and understand a universal gesture such as this one, incongruously expressed by creatures quite unlike ourselves. This gesture is no more or no less than a kiss—a token of affection anyone can relate to.

Landscape and Trail | Central Highlands, Santa Cruz Island

The power of landscape photography rests largely in the relationship between light, color, and composition. On this day, the light was flat, offering no emphasis. Yet this landscape, made from the top of an observation tower in a tortoise habitat in the hills of Santa Cruz Island, still works well. The saturated greens energize the image. I composed the image around the brown path running from the foot of our observation tower to the forest in the mid-distance. That forest, in turn, points the eye towards the distant hills in the background, and the gray sky, tinged with blue, frames the image at the top.

Galápagos Giant Tortoise | Cerro Mesa Plantation, Santa Cruz Island

About 3,000 Galápagos Giant Tortoises live in the wild on the vast coffee and banana plantations in the highlands of Santa Cruise Islands. We had to hike for a half hour to find this one having lunch in the high grasses of Cerro Mesa Plantation. I am not interested in describing the appearance of an entire tortoise. Instead, I zoom in on the point of the image—the taste of grass. It is believed that these reptiles can live up to 150 years in the wild. The most famous tortoise in the Galápagos, known as Lonesome George, died in captivity at Santa Cruz’s Charles Darwin Research Center the day after we visited the center. (I did not photograph him because he was virtually obscured by the bushes in his pen.)

Great Blue Heron and Sally Lightfoot Crab | Santa Cruz Island

These large herons are seen on the beaches and lagoons of most islands in the Galápagos. I returned with numerous photographs of them in flight, stalking through the surf, and perched on the ledges of their rocky dens. I made this image, however, under strikingly different circumstances, and it proved to be my most expressive Great Blue Heron image of the entire visit. I never expected to find this magnificent bird standing on the rocks adjacent to the busiest location in the largest town in the entire Galápagos. Yet there it was—perched next to a boldly contrasting Sally Lightfoot crab at the main entrance to the most important pier in the Galápagos, the pier where all of the tourists visiting Puerto Ayora by sea arrive and leave from their ships and boats. I was spending a few hours on my own in the town and devoted a full half-hour to watching this bird move around these rocks. When it leaned forward, almost as if it were about the converse with the crab, I made this image. It speaks of coexistence between various species—both the crab and the heron feed off these same rocks and the sea around them and share the space in mutual respect. This image shows us that expressive images can be made under all conditions, even those where we might least expect to find them.

Female Vegetarian Finch | Urbina Bay, Isabela Island

There are 13 species of finches in the Galápagos, collectively called “Darwin’s Finches.” No other group of creatures is as important to learn how we have come to understand our place in our world. And all because of Charles Darwin’s voyage to the Galápagos on the HMS Beagle in 1835. While all of those species are different from each other, Darwin concluded that all of these little brown and black birds were also similar, and had descended from a common ancestor as a result of isolation and lack of predation. Darwin’s conclusion has been confirmed by modern DNA testing, and makes it possible for us to see how life itself has developed and evolved. These finches are at the very essence of the Galápagos story, and we saw different species on the various islands we visited. Finches are very difficult to photograph, since they are small birds that are constantly on the move, and often screened from view by trees and bush branches. However, I was fortunate to make at least one expressive image of a “Darwin Finch,” which I’ve identified as a female Vegetarian Finch. Its chest and head markings are unmistakable, and I caught it with one of its wings fluttering and its translucent beak illuminated by backlight.

Galápagos Tortoise | Urbina Bay, Isabela Island

While the finch may be the most significant creature in the Galápagos, the 15,000 tortoises that roam the islands are among the most unique. I’ve tried to express just how unique they are in this close-up image of a tortoise, made as it was drawing its head back under its protective shell. The armored treads on its huge legs tell us that these tortoises move not only by foot, but also by knee and thigh. There is also armor on the chest, and of course, it carries a massive shell on its back. Perhaps all of this protection is why some of them have lived to be 150 to 200 years old.

Sea Lions | Punta Espinosa, Fernandina Island

This pair of female Galápagos Sea Lions seemed to be posing for the cameras as they basked in the evening sun at the water’s edge. They are massive—sea lions are the largest animal on land in the Galápagos. There are somewhere around 50,000 sea lions in the Galápagos, mostly found on its sandy beaches. They are well adapted to humans, and often are the first creatures to welcome tourists as they clamber ashore. This particular pair, which I photographed side by side in profile, one with its nose to the sky, the other with its nose to the beach, symbolizes the hold sea lions have on the human imagination. We study this image and wonder what they must be thinking at this moment.

Diving Blue Footed Booby | Espumilla Beach, Santiago Island

Espumilla Beach, an important nesting site for sea turtles, is also one of those magical places where Galápagos sea birds regularly feed. One of my pre-trip goals was to photograph a diving blue footed booby about to strike the water, and this beach proved to be the best place in the Galápagos to do it. These birds soar high into the air, spot a fish, and plunge straight down to the ocean, entering the water like a knife. It is a very difficult photograph to capture—to frame, expose, and focus on a plunging bird takes great skill and a good deal of luck. I also wanted a well-composed image, one without a lot of blank sky or empty water as context. I spent a half-hour here, shooting several hundred pictures of diving boobies in order to make this particular image. (Thankfully, I was granted the luxury of time here—our group was hiking on the island, and our guide made it possible for me to stay behind on the beach, accompanied by one of our boatmen, in order to concentrate solely on photographing diving boobies.)

I used my smaller camera, zoomed to its maximum focal length of 90mm, to get this shot. It allowed me to place our group’s ship, the barquentine Mary Anne in the background, as well as add a layer of clouds between the ship and the ocean. The birds were plunging through my frame regularly, and I used a fast shutter speed of 1/800th of a second to freeze this one just as it began to furl its wings and retract its feet so it could enter the water with the least resistance. Its body was already stretched out to its limit. I was able to place the bird in the upper left-hand corner of the frame to counterbalance the sailing ship in the lower right-hand corner, creating a diagonal composition. It took both time and a lot of “misses” to make this photograph, but the result was well worth the effort.

Mother and Chick | Seymour Island

As I roamed Seymour’s huge nesting colony of blue footed boobies, I found one cradling a tiny chick between her large blue feet. Because of the size difference, the eye goes first to the large adult bird as it casts an eye over its sharp blue bill pointed downwards towards the chick. The bill acts as a pointer, and following its flow, we come to the tiny chick, resting comfortably under the great brown feathers of its mother’s wing. This image is all about scale incongruity. It was also a difficult shot to make. I had to play with about twenty images until I was able to get one with both the mother’s bill pointing downwards and the chick’s body visible. 

Pinnacle Rock at Sunset | Bartolomé Island

The most famous promontory in the Galápagos is bathed in the golden light of a reflected sunset, which makes a beautiful subject for a photograph. I usually avoid taking pictures of famous places, because they often resemble postcards. What makes this scene so special is the set of three cloud streams that seem to explode from not only Pinnacle Rock itself but also from the two huge hills that flank it on either side. I place the waterline near the bottom of the frame to increase the length of those cloud streams, all of which reflect traces of the setting sun as well.

—Text and photos by Phil Douglis, Ultimate Galápagos. Phil has been teaching photographic communication as well as pursuing his passion for travel photography for more than 50 years. He is the retired director of The Douglis Visual Workshops in Phoenix, Arizona, a training resource in expressive photography for organizational communicators, photo-editors, travel photographers, and hobbyists.

The post A Timeless Look at Galápagos Wildlife appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

Greenland

Along the southeastern coast of the largest island in the world, an intricate network of fjords funnels glacial ice to the Atlantic Ocean, while the exposed rock of mountain peaks, tinted red in this image, hints at a hidden landscape. During summer, newly calved icebergs join slabs of sea ice and older, weathered bergs in an offshore slurry that the southward-flowing East Greenland Current sometimes swirls into stunning shapes. Learn more about this fascinating island on our Greenland trips.

Namibia

In Namibia’s vast Namib Desert, you’ll find the ecological preserve of Namib-Naukluft National Park. This unique swath of land is continually shaped and reshaped by coastal winds, creating the tallest sand dunes in the world—some dunes reaching 980 feet in height! We visit this surreal region on our Namibia journeys.

Western Asia

Western Asia, the world’s largest continent, occupies one-third of the Earth’s landmass. Western Asia encompasses the Middle East including Jordan, and fascinating countries that surround the Caspian Sea, including Kazakhstan and Russia. Check out a number of our hiking and cultural journeys in Asia.

Norway

Flanked by towering peaks and sheer cliffs that rise straight from the sea, the fjords of Norway are among the most unique geological formations in Europe. We discover epic fjords on our Norway trips every summer, when the days are long, giving us plenty of time to make the most of our adventure. Some fjords are more than a thousand feet deep, revealing deep blue—almost black—waters that meander back into the crevices of the glacier-carved valleys.

Mt. Etna, Sicily

Mt. Etna is one of the world’s most active volcanoes. In this image of the volcano in 2001, a plume of steam and smoke rising from the crater drifts over some of the many dark lava flows that cover its slopes. The volcanic soil and arid environment create the ideal place to grow grapes, and Sicilian wine is some of the most well-known—not to mention delicious—in all of Europe. We hike on the coastal trails and up to Mt. Etna on our Hiking in Sicily adventure.

Atacama Desert, Chile

Vivid colors of lilac and cobalt blue paint the arid landscape of northern Chile‘s Atacama Desert. This is one of the driest places in the world, where salt pans and gorges brim with mineral-streaked sediments and give way to white-capped volcanoes.

Skeiðarárjökull, Iceland

The red and black tint in this image may overshadow the icy glacial landscape of southern Iceland, but in fact, the gray-black filaments are past glacial melting outbursts called jökulhlaups. These past floods cascade the plain called Skeiðarársandur, one of the world’s largest. The Skeiðarárjökull Glacier reaches down from the top left of the image. The plain is mostly devoid of vegetation, but red coloring indicates low moss, birch shrub, and other grass species.

Eyjafjörður, Iceland

This stretch of Iceland’s northern coast resembles a tiger’s head complete with stripes of orange, black, and white. The tiger’s mouth is the great Eyjafjörður, a deep fjord that juts into the mainland between steep mountains. The name means “island fjord,” derived from the tiny, tear-shaped Hrisey Island near its mouth. On our Iceland: Off the Beaten Path journey, we visit the city of Akureyri, which lies near the fjord’s narrow tip, and is Iceland’s second-largest population center after the capital, Reykjavik.

Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

This image perfectly captures the different ecological zones around Mt. Kilimanjaro (picture right with the blue indicating remaining glaciers and snow). Kilimanjaro actually has six ecological zones, and you’ll hike through all of them on our Climb Kilimanjaro! adventure.

The Himalayas

Soaring, snow-capped peaks and ridges of the eastern Himalaya Mountains create an irregular white-on-red patchwork between major rivers in southwestern China. The Himalayas are made up of three parallel mountain ranges that together extend more than 1,800 miles. Take a look at all our adventures through the Himalayas.

Lakes District, England

The emerald landscapes of the Lake District in northwestern England lie in U-shaped valleys that were carved by glaciers during the last ice age. Morecambe Bay, below the Lake District, opens into the Irish Sea. On our England Coast to Coast trip, we christen our boots in the Irish Sea and collect a pebble to carry with us on the journey, a time-honored coast-to-coast tradition, then start our hike through the Lake District’s famously scenic landscapes of sapphire lakes and craggy peaks.

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My wife, Lori, and I traveled to Patagonia with our friends in January of 2020. Our Private Journey to the Argentina side of Patagonia was organized and executed by Wilderness Travel. We spent three nights at the memorable Eolo Hotel near El Calafate, and then five nights in El Chalten. Everything about the trip exceeded our expectations!

The following images hopefully convey a sense of the unending beauty in Patagonia, and also that the region’s notoriously changeable weather can alter one’s perception of the surrounding landscape in a matter of minutes.

The road to El Chalten offers increasingly impressive views of the Fitz Roy massif, especially on clear days. We were still 15 miles from town when I took this photo. What a thrill it was for us to be approaching this place on this day! 

Patagonia’s fickle weather was on full display during our day trip to Estancia Christina. The trip began under glorious skies with a cruise across Lago Argentina. Our boat departed from a nearby port just after I took this photo. 

By the time we arrived at the Estancia however, we could see a squall approaching us from the west. Even the horses seemed to know a storm was coming.

Thankfully, the intense wind-driven shower lasted for just a few minutes. It was quickly replaced by a regime of dense, low clouds and gentle breezes. That cloud blanket remained just high enough to afford this remarkable view of the Uppsala glacier, at the far end of the Estancia.

Our best view of this granite spire, the iconic Cerro Torre, came during our first day in El Chalten – on the trail to Mirador Aguilas.

Ironically, we had exactly zero views of Cerro Torre while hiking the Cerro Torre trail itself. Clouds enshrouded the distinctive monolith that whole day. This was nevertheless an epic hike, affording somber, evocative views of secondary peaks such as this one.

While clouds surrounded both Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy on the days we hiked their namesake trails, there was abundant, warm sunshine in the valleys and plateaus leading to and from these peaks. We thus enjoyed endless commanding views like this one. We took plenty of time to relax on the trail and enjoy them.

I’ve never seen a more dazzling array of cloudscapes than what I witnessed in Patagonia. I chose to share my simplest example though, as a reminder that beauty exists everywhere down there. It is not confined to Patagonia’s many deservingly famous mountains, glaciers, and lakes!

During our ascent to the base of the Fitz Roy massif, it became clear that we were hiking straight into a cloud, and fast! Minutes after we were able to just barely discern these ghostly peaks through the cloud cover, we had become completely enshrouded by dense fog.

Thankfully, I did get a clear view of Fitz Roy in all its glory—several times in fact, including at sunrise! On our fourth morning in El Chalten, I woke at 5:15 am and saw that its peak was cloud-free. So I hoofed it up the Mirador Aguilar trail (mentioned above) just in time to experience a profoundly moving sunrise, over the course of about 45 minutes. A few other people were up there with me, but no one said a word. There was nothing to say, really.

At the same time, the sunrise was setting Fitz Roy ablaze, it was also shooting through a valley to bathe El Chalten—a colorful town to begin with—in a surreal golden glow.

We visited the Perito Moreno glacier on a variably cloudy day. The skies did brighten, and the clouds did become a bit more defined though, as we toured near its base.

The Rio de las Vueltas runs northeast of El Chalten, just outside Los Glaciares National Park. Undoubtedly, it appears as an accent in millions of photos taken by visitors to Patagonia. On our last morning in the area, however, the river itself became the star of the show! Its sediment-laden waters seemed unusually vibrant given the scarce sunlight, revealing its meanderings in brilliant turquoise. 

Just for reference, I shoot with a Fuji XT-2 and a Fujifilm 18-135mm F/3.5 lens. On sunny days, I use a polarizing filter.

—Text and photos by Glenn Laffel, Argentina Private Journey.

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In May, 2019, we followed the ancient Silk Road through Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan on a remarkable cultural discovery. Here are some of my favorite images that show the uniqueness of these lands, their culture, and people.

Beginning in Almaty, Kazakhstan, we drove to Tamgaly Petroglyphs, a unique World Heritage Site that preserves the history of more than 5,000 markings. These ancient recordings show various people and their livestock that traveled on the routes from China westward. It also shows the various deities and wild animals from the Bronze Age through the Middle Ages.

Along the main highways, the Kazakhs have erected a number of monuments commemorating explorers and warriors who traveled in this area, west of the snow-covered Tien Shan mountain range.

Some of our excursions included a day hike to the “Valley of Flowers” near Djeti Oghuz and Broken Heart Rocks. We had the opportunity to hold golden eagles, which are used for hunting game and spectator sports—very similar to Mongolia.

During our time near Djeti Oghuz, Kyrgyzstan, we met an elderly Kyrgyz beekeeper and his family. Behind him, you can see his apiary, where his bees are kept.

Upon arriving in Bishkek, we saw more monuments against the backdrop of the Tien Shan Mountains.

In Uzbekistan, we took an express train ride from Tashkent to Samarkand to visit Registan Square, with its brilliant blue-tiled mosques, including 15th century Ulug Beg Madrassah. The Registan was a main square and bazaar in Timur’s (Tamerlane) time, filled with caravansaries. Timur’s scholarly grandson, Ulugbek, turned it into the site of madrassahs where students studied from age 14 to 30.

We strolled through the Sunday market of Urgut, visiting the stalls of the many textile artists.

The Shahr-i-Zindah is a stunning complex of mosques and tombs, displaying mosaics of sapphire and turquoise tiles. This is an area for pilgrimages by Uzbeks. There are impressive sightlines, tilework, and tombs of Timur’s relatives and friends, plus Qusam ibn-Abbas, cousin of the prophet Mohammed.

A photo of a local tourist at Bibi-Khanym Mosque, built to commemorate Timur’s wife in Samarkand, and finished shortly before Timor’s death.

A night shot of Registan Square. The Registan was the heart of the ancient city of Samarkand from the Timurid dynasty. The name Rēgistan means “sandy place” or “desert” in Persian. This was a public square, where people gathered to hear royal proclamations and a place of public executions. It is framed by three madrassahs (Islamic schools) of distinctive Islamic architecture, namely the Ulugh Beg Madrassah (1417–1420), the Tilya-Kori Madrassah (1646-1660), and the Sher-Dor Madrassah (1619–1636).

Interior shapes within Kalon Mosque, Bukhara. It was destroyed by Chinggis Khan and rebuilt in the 16th century. It has a capacity of 10,000 people and beautiful architectural details.

Here is Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in the village of Gypjak, west of the Ashgabat city center. The mosque was built in the home town of President Saparmurat Niyazov, the first president of Turkmenistan. It opened on October 22, 2004, and was built by Niyazov with a mausoleum in preparation for his death. Niyazov died two years later, and was buried in the mausoleum.

At the ancient site of Merv, once called the Queen of the World. Nearly 30,000 acres of Kora-Kum desert, formerly an oasis, in the ancient delta of the river Murgab make up this unique area.  Some of its early history dates back to the Bronze Age.

—Text and photos by 19-time WT adventurers Dan and Sandy Ciske, Central Asia Explorer.

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Madagascar is a fascinating island. As a result of geographic, climatic, and other factors, more than 75% of its plant and animal species are found nowhere else in the world. On my trip with Wilderness Travel, we journeyed all over the island to see its many amazing species. Here are some of my favorite images.

We began in Diego Suarez on the northern tip of the thousand-mile-long island, and made our way down to Ankarana National Park, where we saw our first lemurs, the Sanford’s brown lemur, and the crowned lemur.

After a brief stopover in the capital of Antananarivo (or “Tana”), we flew to the seaside town of Morondava on the west coast. We had great close-up views of the baobab trees on the Avenue of the Baobabs. Then we visited the Kirindy Forest, where we saw Verreaux’s sifaka lemur.

We also spotted the chief predator of the lemurs, the elusive fossa, Madagascar’s largest carnivore.

Madagascar is the fourth largest island in the world, spanning more than 1,000 miles in length and is nearly 250 miles wide. That said, it takes some time to get from one amazing place to the next. After flying back to Tana, it was a full-day drive to our next major stop, Ranomafana National Park. From here, we set out on foot to hike over hilly terrain to watch a group of bamboo lemurs. They didn’t pay too much attention to us—they were more interested in eating bamboo.

And we were also fortunate to see the ring-tailed mongoose.

In Isalo National Park, we watched the antics of innumerable ring-tailed lemurs, as well as some red-fronted brown lemurs.

We then drove towards Andasibe National Park, stopping along the way at La Mandraka Nature Farm, which featured an extraordinary array of chameleons. From neon green to bright crimson, the chameleons knew how to blend in (and stand out) of their surroundings.

Once in Andasibe, we were treated to a variety of lemurs during a couple of hikes, including the lovely Indri, one of the largest living lemurs.

This was a truly incredible experience, not only for the wildlife photographer, but for anyone interested in exploring one of the most unique habitats in the entire world.

—Text and photos by 18-time WT adventurer Charles Hertz, Madagascar: Off the Beaten Path.

The post In Search of Madagascar’s Unique Wildlife appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

I couldn’t pass up the chance to see snow leopards and tigers in India. My journey with Wilderness Travel alongside 14 adventurous travelers began in Leh, Ladakh, where we were able to acclimate for a couple days.

From Leh, we headed to the Snow Leopard Lodge in Ulley, India at 13,400 feet. While rustic, the lodge and food exceeded my expectations, and the staff was great—genuinely wonderful and caring local people. The trackers were out early every morning searching for leopards in the three surrounding valleys. Over four days, we were rewarded with gorgeous views of the Himalayas, but no sightings of the elusive snow leopard.

In the late evening on one of our last days in Ulley, our guide and trackers spotted Gyamo, a female leopard with her two cubs! We quickly headed down the mountain to get as close a look as possible.

The next day we had an even better experience—our guide and trackers spotted the same three leopards. We watched the cubs playing in the deep snow on the high ridge directly across from the lodge! It was a dream come true!

From the high mountains of Ulley, our journey continued back through Delhi and on south to Kanha Tiger Reserve. The hospitality and food at the Kanha Jungle Lodge was top notch. After several safaris into the reserve, we were rewarded with great sightings of tiger T29, as well as other wildlife.

—Text, videos, and photos by WT adventurer Karen Perry, Snow Leopards and Tigers in India.

The post Where to Find Snow Leopards? appeared first on Wilderness Travel.

Hovering over a tea plantation in Sri Lanka. On our journey, Sri Lanka, we walk through tea plantations just like these, and later learn the fine art of “tasting” tea.

Learn more about our Sri Lanka adventure

Catching the soft light over Sossusvlei dunes in Namibia. On our unique Namibia Expedition, we overnight at the only lodge inside Namib-Naukluft National Park, allowing us access at sunrise and after sunset, so you can photograph and climb these imposing dunes while the light is right—no need to line up waiting for the gates to open.

View our Namibia Expedition

Known as the heart of the Coral Triangle, Raja Ampat is the world’s richest area for coral reefs (the triangle includes Northern Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Papua New Guinea). We journey through this wondrous realm aboard a traditional double-masted Indonesian schooner, anchoring in beautiful coves, with lots of time to explore above (and below!) the water’s surface.

View Snorkeling Raja Ampat itinerary

In India, we experience the rich traditions of Rajasthan’s more remote towns, with their legacy of ancient temples, palaces, and imposing fortresses, but our main highlight of the journey is Holi Festival, a wildly exuberant event heralding the approach of spring, complete with singing, dancing, and the enthusiastic flinging of vividly colored powder and water.

Learn more about our Hidden Rajasthan and Holi Festival adventure

Iceland is known as the land of fire and ice, and from this unique angle, you can see the country’s extraordinary contrast of color. This is the result of glacial sediments that flow over the black lava landscapes. On our Iceland adventures, we visit a number of different glaciers, including Vatnajökull Glacier, Europe’s largest glacier, and later soak in the famous Blue Lagoon.

View all Iceland trips

You can bet Hiram Bingham didn’t have a view like this over some of the fantastic Incan ruins in Peru. This particular ruin is Saqsayhuaman (12,142′), overlooking the vibrant city of Cusco. We visit this site on many of our Peru journeys and also make our way to Machu Picchu.

View our Peru Adventures

Whitewashed buildings crowned with blue domed roofs is a specialty of Santorini, Greece. We have a wonderful extension to our Greece journeys that spend time wandering through Santorini’s winding alleys and watching the sunset from a lovely hotel perched right on the cliffs.

Check out our Greece adventures

Dotted across Southern Africa are a network of watering holes that are frequented by all sorts of wildlife. We love this image because it shows the paths elephants take, leaving behind a vast web of watery tracks.

See all our trips in Southern Africa

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The world is full of beautiful and fascinating places, and as a travel writer, photographer, and Wilderness Travel guide, I have had the privilege of seeing many of the best of them. However, there are few destinations that compel me to invoke the term “otherworldly.” To deserve that title a place must make me feel as though I have been transported through time and space, taken out of the realm of mundane reality and dropped into a place of imagination, where anything might be possible.

Every time I arrive to Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest and highest elevation salt flat, a sense of giddy excitement overtakes me. No matter how many times I experience this place the sense of wonder never fades. At 4,000 square miles and nearly 12,000 feet of elevation, it is geographically one of the most unique locations on the planet. Formed when an ancient inland sea evaporated under the intense power of the tropical sun, the Salar is home to a variety of things you simply cannot see elsewhere. Active volcanoes, islands of fossilized coral, and caves full of centuries old intact mummies await the lucky few who brave this place. If you’re lucky, the Salar can even become the world’s largest mirror (more on that later). As a photographer, it offers many unique opportunities for once in a lifetime shots. Here are a few of my favorites from my trips in 2018.

Uyuni was once home to a thriving train transport business, bringing goods from the amazon to the coast. Now many of those trains lay abandoned on the eastern edge of the flats. A desolate place, the train graveyard is also home to some of the most unique street art outside of La Paz.

Get the shot

To capture this shot, I used a faint fill flash to light the complex indigenous inspired designs while still capturing the texture of the wispy clouds and mist of this moody morning.

Just south of the flats lies the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve, home to fantastically colored lagoons populated by flocks of thousands of pink flamingos. It is a scene that seems more likely to appear in a fevered dream than on the frigid high plains of the Andes.

Get the shot

In order to capture these two in flight over the Red Lagoon, I used a fast shutter speed (1/2000 of a second) and attempted to pan at exactly the speed and angle of their flight. A good fast lens with accurate autofocus is also a must in this environment.

No, this wasn’t shot out of the window of a plane, and that isn’t a sea of clouds below the setting sun, it’s a sea of salt! The Salar is the flattest place in the world, allowing for images with extremely distorted perspectives.

Get the shot

This shot was taken with a wide angle lens positioned less than an inch above the ground just as the sun hit the horizon. The texture of the salt mimics the surface of clouds, and couples with the unusual perspective to create the illusion.

Sunset on the Salar casts some of the longest uninterrupted shadows you can see anywhere on earth. Getting the whole group together we lined up for a photograph you cannot replicate most anywhere else. Get the shot: Standing an even distance apart I took the middle position with a wide angle lens. Having everyone spread their legs emphasizes the human shape of our shadows, and making sure the horizon line is flat amplifies the effect.

The Salar at Night

As much fun as I have shooting this surreal landscape in the daytime, as an astrophotographer I feel the true magic of the Salar is revealed after the sun goes down. The relative lack of light pollution coupled with the thin atmosphere makes for incomparable views of the Milky Way galaxy and stars. And if you’re lucky enough to visit after a rain, as our group did in June, the flats become a thin mirror of water that reflects the night sky. This is perhaps the Salar at its most “otherworldy.”

Stepping out of our 4×4 vehicles we stepped into a sea of stars that extended in all directions, above and below. This is the kind of sensation that simply cannot be explained, it must be experienced.

Get the shot

Capturing the Milky Way requires a tripod and a fast wide angled lens. This was shot with a relatively inexpensive 12mm lens with a wide open aperture at F2. The shutter was then left open for 30 seconds, gathering all the light possible without creating star trails. For this shot I aimed for the faint light of the closest town over the horizon to give the composition an anchor.

Playing with light in nightscapes is always fun, but nothing beats it on the Salar. You can play with perspectives and challenge viewers to decide which way is up.

Get the shot

Using the tripod and a remote trigger I set myself up with my headlamp angled toward the Milky Way to create the effect that the galaxy emanates from my light!

The only thing better than seeing a mirror for the universe is sharing it with your friends! These intrepid Wilderness Travelers braved the night on the Salar, I hope you’ll join us there soon!

Get the shot

Lining everyone up using a headlamp to balance the composition with the truck I triggered the shot and held the pose—holding still for 30 seconds in the cold is harder than it looks!

Come see all the wonders Bolivia has to offer with me or Wilderness Travel expert guide Andrea Heckmann in 2019! Check out our Bolivia Adventure!

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